12/23/2023 0 Comments Sounds like a plan emt![]() Stuart, yes I'll have to use my step stool to reset the outlet if it trips. DH mentioned another issue with it he wants to fix so it needs its own day. I'll get this electrical out of the way and then work on the door another day. The gdoor will need some attention soon anyway. MP, I appreciate the pictures, they help. If the opener does not need to be GFCI, then use two GFCI receptacles, one on each wall at the "T" box. If everything has to be GFCI just install a GFCI breaker. ![]() You do not want a GFCI receptacle in the ceiling, if it trips, you need a ladder to reset it. ![]() Then put a single receptacle cover on it. After it is covered with the cover and receptacle, no one will ever know what the box or hole above it looks like. You are not altering any parts, just a little creative in the way you put them together. My reasoning for the larger 4x4 box is working room for the wires that have to pass out the conduits on each side and still have room for the receptacle protruding inside. It would not hurt to overlap the edge of the door opener mounting angle, or you could trim it slightly to make the box lay flat. My suggestion was only slightly different, take the flat 4x4 mud ring with the single box opening, the one in the pics, and screw and lock nut it to the back of a 4x4 extension box (put the screw heads on the back, locknuts in the box, so only the screw heads protrude on the back). The flat 4x4 mudring covered all the excess opening and would have been about invisible if painted to match the ceiling, and you have a good amount of box to make the wire junctions in. wasn't sure if you had access to the top side or not (second floor or attic)Īctually, I kinda liked the original ceiling box setup that was shown. I have had the wire mold strips before and the contacts in the receptacles wore out real quick, and they have cheesy crimps where the wire attaches to the back of each receptacle.ĮDIT: I was typing while you were posting, I see you moved the ceiling box. The quality of a wire mold receptacle in a strip is nothing to compare with the quality of a good name brand receptacle. Build a triangle of brace material in that direction (you may have to install another between-the-joist brace, about a foot backwards or forwards from the current brace, to accomplish this) You will end up with a much more solid garage door install (you may even have to readjust the end point on the downward cycle.if your garage door opener moves now at all at the end of the closing cycle. one of the triangles should resist 'front to back' load (force in the same direction as the garage door opener track). Just add a diagonal piece on one side of the new brace. With the way you are planning to solve your previous problem, that will be easy. ![]() one of the triangles should resist 'side to side' load. (I'll be at work tomorrow, but I'll try to get a pic of my garage door opener install (professionally done about 4 years ago). The part that makes me think that brace was put up by an amateur is that there is no 'triangulation.' If you are going to change the brace anyway, I'd seriously consider forming a couple of triangles in the process. It's been a while, but I don't remember anything in particular that would be messed up (the 'tension' stays the same.same distance between motor and sprocket, as long as you don't detach the motor from the track).Įven I would probably want an extra pair of hands around while trying this, though. I have installed a couple of garage door openers in my life, and seen a couple of others installed. Using the top of the ladder, with blocks and other items, you could let the motor drop just a couple of inches and I don't believe that would bother anything. Back the new mounting points up directly behind the current points (the L bracket facing the other way, with the L-that-sticks-up backed right up to each other, or very close. ![]() There is no reason you couldn't have your new pieces in place BEFORE you drop the motor (then switch one leg at a time). Use the ladder the brace the weight of the motor while you work on the ceiling. You don't have to 'drop' that motor all the way.even the garage door installers put them on the top of a six-foot ladder, when they want them near the ceiling for the install. I put more pics of my ideas e previous post again. ![]()
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